Read on to find out just how we got to the stunning blue glow of Super-LumiNova.
]]>This may be a controversial statement coming from us, but in today’s world of technology and smart devices, watches may be seen as an accessory and a luxury.
As stunning as they can be, let’s be honest, most of us would (just about) survive without them.
Jump back 100 years however, and you’ll find watches were the primary timekeeping tool for the working man and even served as critical tools in synchronising battle manoeuvres. To ensure dependability, watch manufacturers needed to maintain legibility in all lighting conditions, day and night.
The solution - Lume.
Pompeak Sub-Aquatic with BGW9 Super-LumiNova
Watches were widely used in WW1 to support synchronisation of manoeuvres, with the big issue being that they typically needed external light to be read.
A risk of highlighting your position to scanning enemy gunmen meant that using a lamp at night was not always an option, not to mention scarcity of material. To combat this, watch manufacturers and the military tested various techniques to increase watch legibility.
The first solution deployed to the battlefield was an application of radium to the watch hands, generating a light green glow.
Radium timepieces
Radium, being a radioactive material, could only be applied in small amounts with a very weak glow. Zinc sulphide was added to the solution to increase brightness but manufacturing issues remained; tight paintbrush tips were crucial for accurate application, which were maintained by the women working the factories licking the tips of the paintbrushes - not ideal when they're soaked in radioactive radium.
The so called 'radium girls' suffered greatly as a result of manufacturing techniques.
Promethium and Tritium were often used as less harmful alternatives, although radioactive lume remained the industry standard until a development in the late 1990s saw the introduction of the world’s first non-radioactive luminescent phosphorescent material, LumiNova.
Zinc sulphide based LumiNova and the updated strontium aluminate based Super-LumiNova both glow brightest initially and begins to fade over time, with the Super-LumiNova glowing up to 10 time brighter than it's zinc sulphide alternative.
Although luminescent paint is used widely on everything from exit signs to aviation gauges, Super-LumiNova is primarily known for being the best option on the market today for timepieces - We would use nothing else!
In short, LumiNova is charged by light. Whether sunlight or artificial, photons hit the material causing electrons to rapidly energize resulting in a phosphorescent glow. The reaction maintains even once the light source is removed, however the energy levels of the electrons slow down and the brightness of the glow decreases over time.
The number of layers of lume applied to the watch dial/hands affects its longevity with more layers = longer glow. Even with just one coat, you can expect Super-LumiNova to last for a few hours when applied to a small area, however the larger the surface are, the longer it glows.
There are different types of LumiNova available, with varying brightness and colours:
We tested both BGW9 (below left) and C3 lume (below right) during development of the Gentlemen's collection, and fell in love with the blue glow. Not to mention the clean white look of the paint during daylight, compared to the vintage yellow of the C3.
Despite only being established in the 1990s, Super-LumiNova has evolved significantly in the past twenty years. Today, Super-LumiNova is available in three grades: Standard Grade, Grade A, and Grade X1. The most recently developed of the three, Grade X1, is their highest-performing one yet and is up to 60% brighter after two hours glow time.
An alternative to LumiNova is the tritium-based gaseous tritium light source or GTLS. As you might have guessed from the name, this is a radioactive product although harmless when kept inside glass tubing. A distinct constant glow (day and night) that is up to 100 times brighter than LumiNova means this option does have its supporters.
Although with a half-life of 12 years, GTLS brightness will fade over time, becoming negligible after roughly 20-30 years.
Be sure to let us know what you think in the comments or get in touch with any questions via our contact page.
Read on to find out just what servicing of your watch entails.
]]>When it comes to mechanical watches, no matter how strong the case is or how thick the glass is, inside that shell is a delicate mechanical eco-system of moving parts, all of which rely on each other to run properly.
Something as small as a speck of dirt, or a drop of water could see its accuracy go out the window. So, how do you ensure your watch is at its best? The most reliable and convenient way is to get it regularly serviced.
Manufacturers typically recommend a service every 2-5 years, largely depending on the movement choice, but if your watch is running noticeably slow or fast, or something just doesn’t feel right, don’t wait for this window, get it serviced as soon as you can.
What you do while wearing your watch and how you treat it will seriously affect this range. If you're a keen diver and take your watch in the ocean every week, your watch is going to need an MOT more often than a ‘desk diver’.
No matter how well you rinse the watch after the dive, the frequent submersion in saltwater eventually takes a toll on the case and seals.
The age of the watch also plays a role in frequency of service. If it's less than 5 years old and all of the functions are running smoothly as well as keeping good time, it might not need a service. However, prevention is better than the cure and a strip, clean and relubrication might just prevent some more serious work being needed down the line.
The second and third most common questions people have is usually along the lines of “what does a watch service include?" And "is it expensive?”. You can rest assured that (with a reputable service center) you’ll absolutely get your money’s worth with a service, including:
The cost is going to widely vary depending on the watch and movement, but in my eyes, getting all of this from around £90 / $115 for an automatic and £50 / $65 for a quartz movement is an absolute bargain.
Whether you get your watch serviced is completely up to you and is going to depend on the value of the watch, both monetary and sentiment. To watch newcomers, this may seem like a completely unnecessary expense but some professional TLC might just save you a heap of money and heart ache in the long term.
Watches are so much more than a timekeeping device. They’re works of art, an expression of character and a symbol of hundreds of years of innovation and dedication. Mechanical watches in particular consist of many tiny, delicate components that, when keeping accurate time, work in perfect harmony.
It's easy to forget that inside the (water-resistant, scratch-resistant, shock-resistant) metal case sitting on your wrist is an intricate eco-system that can collapse if not appropriately protected or maintained.
In this article, we’re running through the things you should never do to your watch if you want it to continue ticking smoothly.
When the crown isn’t being used to wind the watch, set the time, or change the date, it should be fully closed in order to keep out dust, dirt and moisture. Modern movements are incredibly well designed and efficient, but they (particularly mechanical movements) are in a delicate balance where a rogue grain of dirt or drop of water can cause havoc.
Water has the potential to be far more damaging than dirt as it moves freely inside the watch case, affecting everything it touches.
While the watch case may be made from stainless steel, the springs, gears and wheels of the movement aren’t, meaning they’re vulnerable to corrosion. Once corrosion has started, the complexity and man hours required to check and replace every affected component means a completely new movement is often the only feasible option.
On the flip side on not closing the crown is over-tightening. Applying excessive force when tightening the crown can accelerate damage to the seals, gaskets and threading within the crown, compromising its ability to keep water and dirt out.
A lot of mechanical watch owners have a fear of overwinding their watches. Whilst this caution is certainly not a bad thing, most modern movements do have a clutch system to prevent overwinding the mainspring.
That said, excessive winding will accelerate the wear and tear on various components within the watch (as well as being a big waste of time for you).
For watches with calendar complications, the so called “Danger zone” refers to the period of time where the date change function is engaged - somewhere between 9PM and 3AM for most watches. Using the quickset date function while the automatic date mechanism is engaged can cause irreversible damage to the movement.
The date wheel runs around the outside of the movement and is rolled forward by a date jumper which in turn is driven by the main gear train. In a perfect world the automatic change would happen immediately at exactly midnight and the danger zone wouldn’t be a thing. In reality however, the change takes place over a small period of time during which any manual override can cause the date jumper to turn faster than the connected gears, potentially shearing teeth and rendering the date mechanism broken.
The simplest and safest way of ensuring you are out of the danger zone, is to set the time to 6 o’clock. Whether AM or PM, you’ll be safe to use the quickset function*.
*Disclaimer: This is generic advice, please refer to your watch manual before using your watch functions.
Check out our quick start setting the date guide.
Rapid temperature changes cause the rubber seals of a watch to compress and expand very quickly, potentially affecting their integrity and ability to keep the watch watertight. While day to day temperature changes such as going from a cold walk into a heated building won’t have a detrimental effect, it's best not to bounce between the hot tub and ice bath.
Note: Dive watches and other high rated watches will fair better than a low or unrated dress watch.
As sauna’s regularly reach temperatures of 80°c we suggest taking off your watch before entering. Aside from the expansion of the seals, oils within the watch can lose their lubricating properties at these temperatures.
Occasionally I’ll see someone attempting to wind their watch or set the time one-handed while the watch is still on their wrist.
This might be convenient, but the awkward angle can put unnecessary strain on the crown stem (the slim piece of metal connecting the crown to the movement). The stem can bend and unwanted force can be exerted on the gears in directions they are not designed for.
Worse case scenario: You snap the stem and are left with a gaping hole in the side of your watch case – not ideal for keeping water out.
A watch relies on a delicate balance of motion to run, so something as invasive as magnetism can cause absolute chaos. The hairspring (the fine coil of wire that dictates how the balance wheels rotates and how fast the watch runs) is most affected. At 100th of a millimetre thick, it can be impacted by a relatively weak magnet.
When it becomes magnetised, the coils bind together, shortening the spring and quickening the beats per minute which speed up the watch.
If you notice a sudden increase your watch’s pace, don’t panic, your local watch repairer will be able to demagnetise the watch, leaving your timepiece running as good as new.
This is another obvious one, somewhat mitigated by developments in shock resistance, but powerful impacts can damage the watch case, crystal and movement. We spoke about modern shock protection systems in an earlier blog, and they are an engineering marvel, but their effectiveness is somewhat limited by their size, so it’s best to avoid dropping your watch out a second story window or hitting it with a hammer.
Check out or dedicated blog for more on shock resistance
So this one may be a little controversial to some, and if you are DIY inclined, you might be tempted to ignore my words of warning, but do not attempt to repair or modify your watch yourself.
Watches and watch movements in particular are complicated things that are intricately assembled by highly skilled professionals. YouTube tutorials may have you think that a minor repair is in reach, but trust me, it takes a long time, the right tools, and a lot of perseverance to be able to confidently perform open watch surgery.
Not only will you likely not be able to fully correct the issue, but risk further damage while voiding the warranty and making it even harder for the professional to repair it. I would always recommend taking your watch straight to a jewellers or dedicated repairer – the service fee is well worth the peace of mind knowing your watch is back at its best.
A watch service is like a car MOT for your watch. For a fee, you’ll be left with a watch looking and running at its very best.
Most manufacturers will recommend services every two to five years depending on the movement, and we highly recommend you stick to that. Exactly how often you should get your timepiece serviced depends on how often and how long its worn, and how its kept when not.
Depending on the watch, services won’t cost the earth, with quartz services starting around £50 and mechanical starting around the £90 mark. Most include a full disassembly, chemical clean and reassembly of the watch and movement while inspecting and tuning timekeeping and functions. This will also include replacement of seals where necessary and a spring clean of the watch.
If you avoid making the above mistakes, a well-built watch should last a lifetime.
If you suspect the movement is damaged or the integrity of the case has been compromised, time is of the essence – take your timepiece to a professional within 48 hours for the best chance of saving your movement.
Before the invention and widespread use of the mobile phones, a watch was an essential piece of equipment and the main way people could keep track of time while on the move - a crucial element of military tactics and operations throughout the First and Second World War.
But why do people still wear watches? Is there really any value in owning a watch today?
Let's break it down.
A GREAT ACCESSORY
You have a special occasion coming up, maybe it's a wedding, an interview or even a date) and you want to look the part. There are a few basic decisions to make: the suit, the tie and the shoes. Stopping here is fine – you will be well dressed, no one can deny that, but a few simple changes can elevate your look to the next level.
A tie pin. A handkerchief in the jacket pocket. And a watch on the wrist. All three of these small additions help turn you from someone who is well-dressed, into someone who exudes elegance.
SIMPLE AND CONVENIENT
How many times have you gone to check the time on your phone and twenty minutes later, you’ve found yourself scrolling aimlessly through social media? Sometimes a smart phone can offer too much information when all we really need is a quick answer so we can get back to more important things.
Watches offer just this. A quick look at the wrist gives us all the information we need without all of the distractions a smart phone offers, particularly useful in social situations. Don’t be that guy with your head in a phone.
REFLECTION OF STYLE
Traditional watches have been around for over 400 years and come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, styles, movements and materials, resulting in endless combinations. This means that no matter what your style is, what mood you’re in or what your budget is, there is a perfect watch waiting for you.
RELIABILITY
Watches are, in general, incredibly reliable tools. Smart watches can be synced to mobile phones to ensure they are always spot on while battery powered quartz watches are generally accurate less than one second per day and boasts a battery life of 3+ years.
On the other hand you have the (generally) more expensive mechanical watches, powered by the energy stored within the mainspring, these watches do not have a battery and will continue ticking as long as the spring is wound - whether manually or in the case of automatics, by movement of the wrist.
All good quality watches are built to withstand everyday wear and tear. Our debut collection, for example, features shock resistant quartz movements, housed in a scratch resistant surgical grade 316L stainless steel case and with scratch resistant sapphire glass and up to 50m water resistance.
CONCLUSION
In short, no. In this day and age, watches are not a necessity when our phones, computers, radios and TV all do the same job, but find the right one and you'll struggle to keep it off.
Thank you for reading, be sure to let us know what you think in the comment or get in touch with any questions via our contact page.
The term ‘shock resistant’ is commonly found stamped on a watches case back, or found within the movement detail, but what does this term actually mean? Are there different levels of resistance? How can you differentiate between high and low resistance?
In this edition of 'Watches Explained', we will be looking at how something as delicate as a watch movement, can be so efficiently protected.
The ‘shock resistant’ label is an indication that a watch movement has been designed to resist the effects of mechanical shocks. A ‘shock’ in this context refers to any sudden and drastic change in motion – for your watch, this is most likely to come from knocks and drops, jolting the movement inside.
In a mechanical watch, shock resistance focuses on the protection of one very specific and delicate component within the escapement - the balance wheel staff - and the jewels that hold it.
The stamp tells us that the jewels and staff are mounted in a spring-suspension system, designed to absorb impact energy that could otherwise result in significant damage to the thin staff ends, and a failure of the escapement system.
Before the invention of shock resistant movements, and their widespread adoption in the 1950’s, the most common cause of watches requiring repair was a damaged balance wheel staffs. The pivots and jewel bearings that support the balance wheel are fragile and, on their own, cannot hold the weight of the movement under impact.
A balance wheel and exposed staff next to the tip of ballpoint pen and a few grains of granulated sugar
Invented in 1934 by two Swiss engineers, the Incabloc system was one of the first examples of shock resistance in timepieces. The Incabloc Shock Protection System is the tradename of a spring-loaded mounting system that support the balance wheel, protecting its delicate pivots.
Mounted between two shaped springs, the assembly is able to shift under impact, transferring the shock away from the tip and into the stronger shoulders of the staff and the metal end piece. Once the impact is over, the springs guide the parts back to their original positions resulting in minimal interference with the oscillations of balance wheel.
The video below demonstrates the system in action:
In today’s market there are alternatives to Incabloc; Kif (again created in Switzerland, 1944), Novodiac or even Rolex’s Paraflex system, to name a few. While all have subtle differences in character, cost and workmanship, most work in the same way, with the same objective, and with similar practical success. The main identifier being the shape of the spring that is used.
The inclusion of the shock absorbing system makes accessing and oiling of the balance jewel much easier. Simply pop the spring, remove the jewel assembly and apply oil.
Quartz movements are comprised of much fewer moving parts than their mechanical cousins, utilising a quartz regulated electronic oscillator to keep time. The result is a naturally resilient assembly, and a very robust, accurate movement.
The standardised test for shock resistance of wristwatches, as defined in ISO 1413, consists of a pass or fail test simulating the accidental shock a watch would receive if dropped onto a hardwood surface from a 1 metre height. Two physical shocks are applied to the timepiece; one on the 9 o’clock side and the other on the crystal, delivered by a hammer on a pendulum.
In order to pass, the watch must be accurate to within +/- 60 seconds per day, compared to the control test.
Whilst a +/- 60 second variance is not exactly ideal long term, it is not considered a catastrophic failure of the timekeeping and can likely be normalised with regulation or during the watches next service.
When it comes to absolute shock resistance, quartz and digital watches typically win the battle.
Nonetheless, for the majority of people, most ‘modern’ mechanical watches with a reputable movement will have a level of shock resistance that will keep your watch ticking through day-to-day activities, as well as those accidental knocks and drops.
In either case, severe impacts can even lead to damaged dial feet, failure of seals or errors in timekeeping, so if you do happen to drop your watch out of your bedroom window, it may be time to visit the service centre.
Watch crystal aka watch glass. Every watch has one protecting the dial, and you may see terms like Sapphire, mineral, double domed or AR coated when browsing technical specifications, but do you know what they all mean?
In this blog, we'll be diving into and deciphering the various options available to ensure you're armed to invest in the right timepiece for you.
Watch glass is typically just that - glass. Acrylic on the other hand is a plastic/polymer option that is typically only found on extremely cheap watches or those made for children. The softness of acrylic means that it typically won’t shatter under impact, however it is very easy to scratch, mark or dent.
There are few upsides to choosing a plastic watch crystal besides the low cost and very minor weight reduction, which when looking at the entire watch, is almost negligible. If you really are looking to trim the weight of your watch, you'll find much better returns focussing on the case and bracelet - think swapping that bracelet out for a NATO strap.
Look out for terms like; Hesalite, Plexiglass or Perspex, as they are just branded versions of acrylic. Another indicator that the crystal is acrylic based is if it isn’t listed in the specs at all.
The most common type of watch crystal is mineral. Appearing on the vast majority of entry level timepieces and fashion watches. To create it, Silica is added to the manufacturing process of tempered glass resulting in a more scratch resistant product, while still remaining relatively cheap to produce.
As it’s a variation of tempered glass, mineral crystal feels like the real thing and a huge step-up from acrylic, but it isn’t completely scratch resistant, and you shouldn't expect the flawless finish to last forever. Smaller scuffs can often be buffed out, while the more severe scratches may require an entirely new crystal.
'Hardened mineral glass' such as Hardlex are hardened versions of mineral crystal, which aim to address these imperfections in scratch resistance. Take this with a grain of salt as the success of this varies and is widely disputed within the watch community.
Unlike acrylic, an Anti-Reflective coating can be applied to mineral crystal to increase readability in harsh conditions, but I’ll go into more detail on this later.
Sapphire crystal is not actually the naturally occurring gemstone, nor is it technically glass. It's synthetically produced transparent crystallised aluminium-oxide...
Sounds fancy right?
Well, it is, and has a hardness (relatively) close to that of diamond!
Diamond is one of hardest materials on planet earth scoring a 10 on the mohs hardness scale. Sapphire sits just below it at 9, with mineral glass and acrylic sitting at around 5 and 3 respectively.
What this means is that unless you're using sharp diamonds, your watch crystal will be virtually un-scratchable!
While sapphire is near impervious to scratches, it's worth noting it can shatter under heavy impact. Practically this is rarely an issue, but just hold off attacking your new watch with a hammer.
In reality, any signs of wear on your watch are going to be on the case and straps, with the Sapphire crystal keep the dial view as clear as ever.
Creating the hardest crystal on the market isn’t cheap so sapphire typically reserved for those higher end watches. That said, we feel it's a justifiable upgrade at almost any price point and include it as standard in all of our watches.
There are a few things you can do to check whether a watch has sapphire or mineral crystal. If you've been around both for a while, you may be able to notice a subtle difference in feel. For the average viewer however, there are two practical tests you can do:
Generally speaking, cut mineral glass has the classic blue hue, whereas Sapphire crystal has a white look.
A more reliable method of distinction would be to test some character such as the density, refractivity, hardness or even thermal conductivity, which can be tested using an affordable hobbyist 'diamond tester'.
Sapphire coated mineral glass is a recent offering that has been adopted by some micro-brands and as the name suggests, this glass is comprised of a layer of mineral glass topped with a sapphire coating. Seiko also use a version of this under the pseudonym 'saflex'.
This 'best of both worlds' solution was intended to provide a boost to the scratch resistance of mineral glass, although there have been reports of the sapphire layer being chipped off or separating completely.
I’ve mentioned anti-reflective (AR) coatings a couple of times in this blog, but what exactly is it?
Anti-reflective (AR) coatings can be applied to both sapphire and mineral crystals and are a game changer when it comes to watch readability.
When applied, the coating is generally found on the dial side surface of the crystal and works to alter the path of reflecting light waves to cancel themselves out.
Sometimes referred to as 'Anti-Glare', you’ll find the exact same thing used on eyeglasses, telescopes, or anything with a lens!
Depending on the solution, the AR coating can also give the remaining reflections a coloured tint (often red or blue). The aesthetic impact of which is of course subjective, but personally, I love it.
It’s not just materials you need to consider when choosing your next crystal, shape has a huge impact on face readability, strength and of course the aesthetic of the overall timepiece.
Most are variations of the same two categories: flat or domed.
Domed crystals are often found on (but not limited to) dive watches due to the higher pressure resistance compared to flat glass.
When it comes to readability, a domed outer surface of and flat inner surface of the crystal can create a magnifying glass effect resulting in severe distortion in the view of the dial. This is solved with Double domed crystals which have matching profiles on both the inner and outer faces.
Each crystal type has it's pro's and con's so you'll need to weigh up which one suits you. For us, the cost increase of Sapphire is more than justified by its impact resistance and almost flawless scratch resistance, which is why Pompeak uses it on every collection.
Pompeak will be turning 5 years old in 2022 and this milestone seems like the perfect opportunity to take a look back at the journey we've taken to get here.
In the 2020 blog “Our story, so far” I explained the reasons for Pompeak’s creation as well as everything up to and including the launch of our Gentlemen’s Collection’s and left a teaser for the launch of our latest collection – the Sub-Aquatic. In this blog, I’ll be updating you on everything that’s happened since – the ups, the downs and everything in between!
Founders & Brothers - Dave (Left) & Noah (Right)
Before I start, I would like to thank every single person that has supported us on our journey so far: whether you have shared a social media post, left a product review, completed a pre-launch survey, or whether you are one of our amazing customers and Kickstarter backers that have joined our journey and supported our vision. We really would be stuck without you.
TL;DRThe past couple of years have provided us (and the rest of the world) with some unique challenges that have truly tested our ability to adapt. However, through it all, and thanks to you, we've continued to grow: We've launched two new collections and delivered our watches to hundreds of customers all over the world, we’ve invited the community into our development process with our Pompeak Insiders Facebook group and, of course, adapted to both Brexit and the Coronavirus pandemic and the change to the world that this has bought with it. |
Our last story update ended by teasing the release of our first dive watch, the Sub-Aquatic. Sticking to our core philosophy we focused on quality first before working to ensure we could release it at the best possible price.
Our efforts didn't go unnoticed and our Swiss powered, 904L dive watch became fully funded within just 24 hours of it's Kickstarter launch!
It didn’t stop there, after listening to backer feedback we opened exclusive options such as red ceramic bezel and decorated Elabore movement options and after 30 days, the project success was official, and production began.
In one way or another, Coronavirus has affected almost every citizen of the world over the last 2 years, unfortunately including us. A shutdown, followed by strict control measures implemented throughout our production facilities, slowed production but increased workers safety, something that I'm sure we can all agree, is a fair and necessary trade.
The resulting delays during the Sub-Aquatic production phase ate right through any contingency time, pushing our delivery schedule back a few weeks. During this time we prioritised transparency, ensuring all backers were kept in the loop throughout with continuous and open project updates.
Despite the initial speed bumps, the Sub-Aquatic soon arrived in happy hands with fantastic reviews and has quickly become our most popular range - almost completely selling out in just a few weeks of arrival!
The most popular Waffle and Deep Dive Dial Editions are returning soon and are now available to pre-order with shipping expected Feb 2022 (Accurate at time of writing).
With our first dive watch sailing through production, it was time to begin brainstorming our next project. Now, we have always appreciated our community as our most valuable team member, but we agreed that we needed a much better way to communicate with you when it comes to development. A way to share ideas and gather feedback on exactly what you want to see in your watches, and what you feel is missing from our concepts and designs, way before any material is cut.
After much deliberation, the Pompeak Insiders Facebook group was launched.
This group is dedicated to involving you in our development process, right from the first concepts, all the way to pre-production and future launch. Pompeak Insiders launched in June 2021 and currently over 100 members are helping shape our next timepiece.
Our website has changed a lot since the one we launched with, and that's a great thing. We're constantly streamlining our website making things like customer reviews and collection overviews easy to find and adding features like live chat.
Buying a watch online can be a little daunting, so we want to do all we can to reassure visitors that what you see is what you get!
By popular demand, we now also offer Klarna and Lay-Buy at checkout, giving you the choice to split payment over 3 months, completely interest free. Perfect for when you literally cannot wait to get your hands on that new watch!
If you feel there is still something missing from Pompeak.com, please do let us know.
When Dave and I launched Pompeak, the goal was “to introduce a high quality, fairly priced timepiece to the world”. To date, three collections have made it from concept to reality with this philosophy and we are extremely proud of the feedback received over the years, whether that be from industry voices or from you guys, the customers putting your new watches through their paces.
Our products have appeared in publications including GQ, Esquire and Your Average Guy to name a few.
Five years later and I think its fair to say we’ve absolutely smashed our initial goal but we’re not stopping there…
Just like in the last “Our Story” blog, we want to give you a teaser of what 2022 has in store:
Well, although full details are yet to be finalised, we've been working with our insiders to develop a stunning range of Swiss powered, automatic dress watches.
If you'd like to be kept up to date with the launch, be sure to join our mailing list or follow us on socials (Facebook/Instagram).
We say it a lot, but Pompeak really is only here today because of the support we have received from our community. So for every like and share, to each purchase and review - THANKYOU!
There are many decisions to make when on the hunt for your next watch; movement type, case size or dial design. And whilst these all play a crucial role in creating the overall character of the watch, picking the right strap is an often overlooked factor that can be the difference between a forgettable timepiece and one you'll never want to take off.
So, today, we're taking a look at the wide range of options available, the differences between them, and what to look out for when shopping your next strap!
Leather straps can be found in a huge variety of colours and styles to match almost any outfit. From the understated classic black you'll find paired with a classy Tux, to the cool tan and even the more eye catching orange and blues.
When it comes to the textures and finishes available, a picture speaks a thousands words:
Mock Croc - Whatever your reason for avoiding real croc skin, Croc-effect Cowhide or faux leather will give you the same sophisticated look while benefitting from a boost in affordability and sustainability.
Quilted - I'll be honest, this one is not for me. But, if you're after a soft padded strap, this could be the way to go.
Racing - Originally designed to keep the wrist sweat free during those high adrenaline moments, racing straps are the perfect match for certain super sporty watches.
When you've found the colour and style to match your look, the real key to a great leather strap is in material selection. Whether you're looking for faux leather or genuine, it may be worth spending a few extra bucks to upgrade to full PU Faux, or full grain genuine leather.
Faux leather is a synthetic material created as a substitute for animal hide. Usually created from plastic, this vegan friendly option does not necessarily mean poor quality, although again, you'll need to read the description. The main two types are PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and PU (Polyurethane).
Although slightly more expensive, PU leather is the one to go for here. It's much softer, more breathable and feels much closer to real leather while also being a whole lot better for the environment.
Our PU Leather Watch Roll - A great alternative to the real thing.
The term "genuine leather" covers anything that technically counts as 'real leather'. Whether it's scraps of pig, goat or if you're lucky, cow hide. The term is often mistakenly seen as a label for high quality goods.
Instead, read the product description and look out for 'top-grain' or the pinnacle that is 'full-grain' leather. Full grain leather is cuts of pure, unaltered hide with everything in tact, whereas top grain may be slightly altered to cover any imperfections.
The beauty of the leather strap is in the versatility. A leather option can be paired with almost any outfit, matching with shoes and belt to really take it to the next level. My only advice here - If you're going to a black tie event, the simple black leather strap is all you need!
One of the most useful inventions in strap technology is the quick-release feature. Although available on some bracelets, adding quick release spring bars to leather straps not only makes strap changes much more efficient, but you'll also avoid excessive wear to the leather (if you've ever changed a regular leather strap, you'll know what I mean).
This game changing feature allows for rapid strap changes to breath new life into your timepiece, or match that ever changing outfit with the same watch.
Much like the leather options, there’s no shortage of choice when it comes to choosing a metal band/bracelet for your watch. The most common categories found on men's watches are segmented (a.k.a linked) and Milanese (a.k.a mesh). For women, there's a plethora of bangle style bracelets too.
The most common watch bands are made up of links, each divided into 3, 5 or 7 segments. The bands, links and the segments themselves come in all shapes, sizes and finishes independent of each other, leading to an almost endless supply of aesthetic choice.
Whether you're looking to for a dive watch, dress watch, or anything in between, there's always a bracelet to match.
Unlike leather straps, the actual length of the bracelet can be adjusted by adding/removing links, held together by screw, or link pins which may require a link pin tool to remove when sizing the band.
Also knows as 'mesh' bands, this design originates in Milan with it's history dating back to 13th century chain mail. Metal wires are worked into a mesh to create a strong, light and surprisingly comfortable structure adding distinct character to their paired watch.
Much like their leather counter-parts, the look, feel and longevity of metal bands is largely in the material selection.
This is a huge topic in itself which we'll be diving into in an upcoming blog, so to keep it short:
On the cheap end is 304 stainless steel. If you can, stay away from this. Instead, pay that little bit more and opt for 316L as a minimum. It's far more corrosion resistant and just generally more durable.
On the premium end of the stainless steel scale is 904L stainless steel, also referred to as a corrosion resistant super-alloy, this grade allows a mirror like finish.
Stronger, darker and typically more expensive than most stainless steels. Titanium is a great alternative for those with Nickel allergies.
The contrast in tone between a Titanium and Stainless Steel watch
The main contenders here are gold and platinum - Both out of range for most watch shoppers, but when used tastefully can look fantastic. Platinum is somewhat understated and has hypoallergenic properties - perfect for those with sensitive skin. Gold on the other hand is pretty much as flash as you can get. There's a fine line here between a work of art and a complete eye sore.
Aside from the ultra-formal attire such as black/white tie events (opt for a black leather strap here), metallic bands can be worn just about anywhere.
They're just as durable as the watch itself and will fare much better with moisture than their leather counterparts. Just be sure to chose a strap that suits your outfit.
Originally designed and used by the British military in the early 1970's, NATO straps have since become a popular strap of choice for those looking for the tactical/functional look.
First brought to the mainstream by Sean Connery's Bond
Although similar styled straps exist, true NATO straps are made up of one single piece of nylon looped around the buckle to give two uneven lengths. The longer end is used as the main strap, while the shorter end adds security to the fit reducing movement of the watch.
Metal 'keepers' are then used to hold excess material.
NATO straps are available in a wide range of prices, sizes and colours to match almost any budget, outfit and watch size. The thickness of the strap is going to affect how securely the strap fits between the watch and spring bars - Think, the thicker the strap, the less the watch will slide. (Although be sure not to go too thick for your watch!)
While thicker straps are also going to be generally stiffer and stronger, the 'quality' is largely down to the feel of the NATO strap. Straps with denser weaves are going to give the softer and more pliable feel.
Pompeak's New Nato Strap in Black & Grey
One of the best things about NATO strap is the relatively low cost, so whether your new watch costs £50 or £50k, a NATO strap is a cheap and easily interchangeable way to rock it.
Take a leather strap in the sea and it could be knackered. Take a NATO strap for a dip and you'll have a damp wrist for at least a few hours. Take a rubber strap on your next dive and give it a quick wipe when you surface and it's as good as new.
This, along with it's sweat wicking properties, makes the rubber strap the perfect choice for almost any physical activity. It may just be the best functional material a watch strap can be made from.
Rubber can be formed into almost any shape and dyed almost any colour, meaning whether you're looking for the 'in your face' orange, or the 'I can't believe it's not leather' look, stylistically you're spoiled for choice.
When it comes to material, the main categories are Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (NBR), silicone rubber, polyurethene rubber or PVC rubber. These days, all will likely be very durable, but have subtle character differences such as the reported 'tacky' feel of silicone. My advice - If you're buying from a reputable seller, you shouldn't go too far wrong.
Watches should be an accessory to your outfit, not the main attraction, so while there is no set rulebook when it comes to finding the perfect strap for your watch, just make sure the combination works with our outfit and not against it.
To coincide with the release of our latest collection we’d thought now would be a good time to remind ourselves why dive watches are so iconic.
The Sub-Aquatic
A dive watch is, predictably, a watch designed for underwater diving, with a minimum water resistance of 10ATM (static water pressure equivalent of 100m).
The International Organization for Standardization has minimum requirements when recognising a 'Divers watch' (ISO 6425):
Now, while relevant and recognised certifications are great, let's be honest - with technology where it is today, it's rare that mechanical watches are used as the primary life preserving tool over modern dive computers when scuba diving.
It's for this reason that more and more brands (Pompeak included) are choosing not to put their products through ISO certification even though they are up to scratch.
The Sub-Aquatic, for example, meets all of the practical requirements (and then some), but the added cost of certification just wouldn't be worth the necessary increase in retail price.
That said, if you are shopping for a dive watch, ISO rated or not, be sure to check the specs and make sure you can actually take your watch in the water!
Efforts to produce water-resistant watches date back to the 17th century, although real success wouldn't occur until the 19th century with aptly named “Explorer’s Watches, produced with basic levels of water and dust resistance.
Rolex made the first notable breakthrough, patenting its famous “Oyster” watch case in 1926, featuring a hermetic (air tight) seal capable of surviving more than 10 hours in seawater - proven by Mercedes Gleitze in her 1927 English Channel swim.
Gleitze beginning her successful attempt as the first woman to swim the English Channel.
The first commercially produced diving watch was created by Omega in 1932 - Named 'The marine', this watch featured a double cased design sealed with cork capable of withstanding depth up to 135m (443ft).
The addition of lume was first incorporated in a Rolex based Panerai in 1936 following a request by the Italian Royal Navy to improve visibility.
The next 25 years saw little developments in diving watch technology until 1961 when both Edox and Rolex released pieces rated up to 200 metres. (Shortly followed by the release “ultra-water resistant” watches such as the Rolex Sea-Dweller rated up to 600 metres).
The improvement of the Submariner’s water-resistance helped it become the watch of choice for the first ten James Bond films, which in turn helped it achieve icon status.
Sean Connery as James Bond in Goldfinger.
Fast forward 20 years to the 80’s and you'll meet the introduction of digital dive watches, and to the present day where most, if not all, serious divers are accompanied by dive computers. These electronic devices measure the time and depth of each dive, assisting with oxygen management and ascent, helping divers avoid decompression sickness.
Classic mechanical dive watches are often worn as backup instruments in the event of a computer malfunction.
Dive watches, and their straps, can be made from a range of materials, with the more serious pieces coming equipped with corrosion-resistant properties. 316L stainless steel, commonly referred to as “surgical grade”, is resistant to corrosion, acid and chlorides which makes it ideal for surgical instruments (hence the name) as well as most 'daily wear' watches.
Although resilient, 316L is susceptible to corrosion when exposed to prolonged periods in salty seawater. This is where 904L stainless steel comes in.
An increase in Nickel, Chromium and Molybdenum gives 904L steel a far superior resistance to chlorides and acids making it perfect for any type of diving. This, along with the highly polished finish achievable, is why 904L is championed by Rolex in their 3,900m rated Deepsea range.
904L Stainless steel - A corrosion resistant super alloy
When it comes to dive watch straps, there are 3 main categories: metallic, rubber and NATO (you don't want to be taking leather straps underwater). Metallic bracelets are usually fashioned from the same material as the watch case, rubber is flexible, yet strong and easily cleaned, while NATO straps are made from naturally tough nylon which gives a military like look.
The Sub-Aquatic strap variations
What all these straps have in common is their ability to be quickly, and securely, fitted to either the wrist or over a scuba suit. NATO and rubber straps are usually adjusted by the classic tang buckle, while some higher end metallic bands come with a sliding clasp.
Designed to be used within the harsh world beneath the waves, dive watches are extremely tough and more than capable of surviving anything land based life can thrown at it - Whether that be dirt, sand, magnetism or regular knocks, a well built dive watch will keep ticking through it all.
You may find some dive capable watches categorised under their initial concept as “Explorer’s Watches”
The versatility bleeds through to the watches style where a simple strap change can completely transform the entire look of the dive watch.
From the red carpet to the wrist of a high flying CEO, the dive watch has become a versatile fashion accessory, and its unique look is loved by many.
The suave, sophistication of decades of Bond sporting this iconic watch right from high stakes poker to jaw-dropping action made an impression on audiences at all corners of the world and helped cement the idea that dive watches may just be the most versatile watch you can wear just about anywhere, doing just about anything.
Sean Connery's James Bond influenced a generation.
We say this often but a good quality watch should last a lifetime, and none can do it quite as comfortably as a dive watch.
This is the single most important ingredient for longevity.
If you’re an active person who isn’t afraid to get wet, make sure your watch isn’t either. Ensure your watch has enough water resistance to handle stormy weather, a swim, a shower or whatever water-based activity you’ll be doing. It sounds obvious but don’t make the mistake of taking your “splash proof” watch to the deep end.
If you’re wearing your timepiece in a swimming pool or the ocean, rinse it thoroughly as soon as possible, with clean water to wash off any salt or chemicals that may damage any seals around the watch.
No matter how tough your watch is, the less contact it has with impurities – the better.
Oh, and while we're having a spa day, it’s best to take off your timepiece before heading into a sauna. The extreme heat will take it's toll on those gaskets.
Sweat, grime and everyday use all take their toll on your timepiece, but quick and regular cleans are an easy way to keep it looking day 1 fresh.
First, for ease of access, separate the watch from it's straps.
Next, use a microfiber or chamois cloth to wipe any dirt or dust off the watch case and back. Now use lukewarm (not hot) water and a drop of antibacterial soap to remove any stubborn oils or grease (keep any harsh solutions away from those important seals).
Finally, rinse the watch with clean water, and pat dry.
Repeat this method to clean stainless steel bracelets – we recommend using a soft toothbrush to get between the links.
To clean a leather strap, first give it a wipe with a dry cloth then pat it with a damp one. Apply a small drop of mild or gentle hand soap and scrub both sides of the band. Rinse the cloth and wipe the band clean, before leaving it overnight to air dry.
Leather conditioner can be used to prevent cracking and keep your straps baby soft.
The most delicate part of a watch is the movement, particularly in mechanical and automatic watches.
Most manufacturers will recommend services every two to five years depending on the watch, and we highly recommend you stick to that. Exactly how often you should get your timepiece serviced depends on how often and how long its worn, and how its kept when not.
Depending on the watch, services won’t cost the earth, with quartz services starting around £50 and mechanical starting around the £90 mark.
A relatively small fee to keep your watch ticking day in, day out.
It goes without saying, but when not wearing your watch, keep it safe.
Leaving a watch one its side or face down can lead to avoidable knocks or scratches. If you don’t have a display case, the box it came will do just fine.
If your watch has an automatic movement, you may want to consider storing it in a watch winder!
Lastly - when winding your watch, make sure not to over wind. Most watches take around 40 full turns, as soon as you feel resistance, stop!
To avoid causing unnecessary damage, always take your watch off to wind the movement.
Click here for our easy how to "wind the movement" video.Hopefully this guide will help you keep you watch looking brand new.
If you have questions, be sure to let us know in the comment or get in touch via our contact page.
Be sure to check out our other blogs or follow along on our socials for more.
]]>Elapsed Time Bezel:
The elapsed time (or 'divers') bezel allows the user to calculate the (you guessed it) elapsed time. It features a large, easily readable scale from 0 to 60.
This style bezel was designed to help divers track time spent underwater, commonly with denser markings for the first 10-20 minutes to assist with decompression stop timings.
Dive watches often feature uni-directional rotating bezels to ensure any accidental knocks "add" to the elapsed time rather than reduce. It's always better to end a dive a little early than find yourself running low on oxygen.
How to use an elapsed time bezel:
Whether you're timing a dive or timing your steaks on the grill, simply rotate the bezel so the zero matches the current minute hand. The minute hand will then point to the elapsed time on the bezel.
Tachymeter Bezel:
(This one is less complicated than it first seems, so please stick with it)
A tachymeter is the most common scale and is used to convert speed into distance, and vice-versa. This function is primarily used with watches that have a center seconds chronograph with stopwatch capabilities, and usually appears on a fixed, non-rotating watch bezel (or on the outer rim of the dial).
How to use a tachymeter:
The numbers on the tachymeter represent 3600/elapsed time (seconds)
(3600 = number of seconds per hour)
Let's say you wanted measure the speed of a racing car over a 1 mile stretch.
Ensure the center seconds starts at 0 as the car starts it's journey and stop the chronograph once the car has passed the mile marker.
If, for example, the car takes 21 seconds to cover this distance, the tachymeter will read ~170, indicating a speed of 170mph.
This simple yet ingenious design can prove useful measuring the average amount of time it takes to do anything over the period of an hour.
GMT Bezel:
A GMT watch allows the wearer to keep the time in two or three different time zones – very useful for frequent travelers, pilots or even those who do business in other time zones.
All watches with GMT functionality have either a large rotatable bezel, featuring a 24 hour engraving, or an additional hand that completes one full rotation every 24 hours, or both.
How to use an GMT bezel:
To utilise the bezel, simply move the scale forward or backwards in line with the time difference of your desired country, and you’ll be able to read the time there with ease. Similarly, for watches with an independent GMT hand, you can set this to the second timezone.
If your watch has both a GMT bezel and an independent GMT hand, you can utilise both functions to set 3 time zones.
In all cases, the minutes hand is read as normal.
Slide Rule Bezel:
The slide rule is one of the most complicated scales found on a watch. First appearing on watches in 1952, the slide rule helps pilots with various flight calculations including fuel consumption, air speed and distance travelled, but can be used for multiplication/division or for imperial to metric conversions.
Although pilots are still taught to use the slide rule, for most, the function has been replaced by the much more user-friendly calculator.
If you really want to, you too can learn how to use the slide rule, but, it'll require a bit more than a short paragraph so we're not going to cover that today!
Purely Aesthetic Bezel:
At the end of the day, selecting a watch is, and always will be, a very personal choice and an additional function on the bezel can be anything but subtle.
In many cases a purely aesthetic bezel may be just what to need to complete a stunning timepiece (particularly if you’re not going to be converting distance to speed or need to know the time halfway across the world on a regular basis).
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Waterproof Watches?
First thing's first: No watch is "waterproof" and you should be wary of any that is being marketed this way. This term is actually banned for being misleading.
There is always a limit to how much pressure a watch can handle.
Water Resistance
Watches marked with a water resistance rating are sealed up to a certain pressure. Measured in atmospheres of pressure (ATM) and often converted to static depths to indicate how well the timepiece handles water.
At sea level the normal atmospheric pressure is 1 ATM.
3 ATM means the watch is sealed to 3 atmospheres of pressure, and can handle being submerged in 30 metres of static water for 10 minutes.
5 ATM : 50 metres, 10 ATM : 100 metres and so on, all the way past 100 ATM or 100 atmospheres of pressure : 1000 metres.
However, a label of "3 ATM" or "30 metres water resistance" does not mean the watch can literally survive a swim to a depth of 30 metres and you should probably keep it out of the water completely.
Testing
A watch must pass vigorous testing before being awarded a water resistance rating, but this is done in a very controlled environment, using pressurised chambers to check for breaks in the seals. These chambers can be wet or dry, but the static pressures used are not perfect representations of real water depths.
So when can I confidently wear the watch?
You may be surprised how much pressure actually acts on a moving object in moving water such as a watch on your wrist whilst swimming or diving into a pool.
Watch resistance tips
The water resistance rating on a watch applies when it is new, but temperature changes, chemicals and even time will wear a seal and reduce its ability to hold pressure - keeping water from damaging the delicate internals of your watch.
Treating your timepiece with care will help to maintain effectiveness:
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In this article we look at what both have to offer, and help you decide which one is right for you.
What is a movement?
The movement is the power house of a watch. It's what makes your watch tick, including any complications such as a calendar, chronograph or moon phase details. This often hidden element is overlooked during a lot of purchases, yet plays a big part in determining the quality, value, and longevity of a watch.
Mechanical and Automatic
The first mechanical movements date back to 1700’s pocket watches with the self-winding (automatic) feature being invented by British watch repairer John Harwood in 1923.
Mechanical watches are powered by the release of a tightly wound mainspring, regulated by the so called, escape mechanism. With no battery in sight, the mainspring is mechanically wound using the crown or, in the case of automatics, wound via the oscillating weight and the wearers movement.
In both cases, an escape mechanism ensures the steady release of the mainsprings energy, giving the second hand a smooth, sweeping motion and allows the power reserve to keep the watch ticking between winds. This reserve will usually be between 30 and 40 hours, with our Gentlemen's collection chosen movement giving up to 42 hours power reserve. In extreme (and very expensive) cases this can rise upwards of 100 hours!
Automatic movements are tiny works of art, each containing hundreds of moving parts assembled to the highest level of precision. This manufacturing method drives up the costs, which is why you'll generally find mechanical movements in more expensive timepieces.
A potential downside to a mechanical watch is the need to keep that mainspring wound. Without the self-winding feature, you may find that hand winding becomes part of your daily or pre-wear routine. In the case of automatics, regular wear avoids this issue.
Mechanical and automatic movements were the only option right up until 1969, and the invention of the quartz watch.
Quartz movements
Quartz watches are battery powered, utilising an electronic oscillator, regulated by a quartz crystal to keep time which gives the second hand a classic ticking movement. The quartz crystal creates an incredibly precise signal, ensuring the timepiece is accurate within a few seconds per year.
Due to their high accuracy, battery power source and relatively cheap selling price, the invention of the quartz watch caused, what became known as, “the quartz crisis” in the 70’s and 80’s. This era saw the bankruptcy of dozens of Swiss watch companies as well as the rise of Japanese companies Seiko and Casio.
One drawback of choosing a quartz watch is it's battery life, requiring replacement every 3 or so years, although some, like our Debut collection, boast 5+ year battery life.
Today, over 90% of the watches on the market are built using quartz movements with mechanical watches often seen on higher end pieces.
Pros of an Automatic Movement
Pros of a Quartz Movement
Summary
Each watch movement has its advantages: quartz have higher levels of accuracy and will last for years without any form of winding, while a mechanical watch is a moving work of art, paying homage to the engineering heritage that created them.
While the debate of quartz vs automatic has been raging for decades, each has their place.
In the end, if you want our advice - listen to your heart.
Thank you for reading, be sure to let us know what you think in the comments or get in touch with any questions via our contact page.
Want more? Check out our other blogs or follow along on our socials for more.
]]>To fully answer this question, we need to go right back and look at what makes both watches tick.
Where it all began:
A watch is a small timepiece intended to be carried or worn by a person.
Although the so called Nuremberg eggs were portable clocks used as navigational instruments, they were not really suitable for the wrist.
This all changed during the 16th century when two Swiss mechanics first formed, what is now known as, the main spring - a tightly wound spring used as the power source of mechanical watches. Innovation continued and by the 19th century wristwatches were widely worn as women’s jewellery, with men often opting for the more fashionable pocket watches of the time.
This changed during WWI with the importance of synchronised military manoeuvres and by the end of WWII, public perception of the man’s wristwatch had changed, bringing with it a rise in demand and quality, driving innovations such as unbreakable glass and luminous hands.
1969 saw the introduction of the first Quartz watch - the Seiko Astron. Utilizing cheap and highly accurate movements which replaced the mechanical balance wheel with an electronic, quartz regulated, oscillator.
These watches opened the door for innovations such as the chronograph watch and marked the start of a huge economic shift away from mechanical watches, aptly named the quartz crisis.
A brief history of the smartwatch
Smartwatches are a relatively new invention, with the first watch able to do something, other than tell the time being the T001 created by Seiko in 1983, and made famous by Roger Moore’s James Bond in Octopussy. The T001 allowed users to view video output in a whopping ten shades of grey when linked to a portable TV receiver.
The Seiko data 2000, also released in 1983, allowed users to store up to 2 memo’s, make calendar entries and acted as a calculator – providing you use the clip on keyboard.
In 2001, IBM released the Watchpad 1.5 which had heaps of new features, all considered standard in today’s smartwatch market - Bluetooth, a vibrating mechanism and a touch sensitive display, even a fingerprint sensor.
Garmin smartwatches are well known today their GPS capabilities, first demonstrated in 2003 with the release of the Forerunner. It was capable of measuring speed, distance, pace and calories burned, with a pair of AAA batteries providing 14 hours of run time.
Fast forward to the present day and most of the above features appear in a standard smartwatch for under £300 and manufacturers are cramming more and more into every iteration, at the small expense of battery life.
So why would anyone chose a dumb watch?
At this point you may be thinking a smartwatch is the obvious choice and offers so much that a traditional cannot. That is true, if you want to track your every move, your heart rate or view text messages with a screen on your wrist instead of a screen on your phone. Hell, you can even track how many hours you slept last week. Having owned a number of smartwatches in the past however, there are a few things that mean I am not going back to one anytime soon:
A smartwatch battery can last up to around 36 hours and usually requires daily charging, fine if you pop it on charge every night, but what if you want to track your sleep every night and steps every day??
Compare that to a traditional watch – Quartz watch batteries last for years (yes, years. Pompeaks Debut Collection has a 5 year battery life). A mechanical watch may need winding every day or two, but opt for a self-winding automatic and so long as you wear it, you'll never have to charge it.
The last thing today’s society needs is more distractions and one thing I definitely do not need is my watch buzzing me to look down when I’m in a meeting or trying to have a conversation. I also don’t need to be obviously checking the time with the press of a button or tilt to activate the screen, why not just glance down to the always on display of a traditional watch.
Finally, for me, a smartwatch is yet another screen to look at. A traditional watch can be chosen for extreme conditions or to be a miniature piece of art you carry round to complete your look. Whatever look that may be, you can find a watch to match.
Technology is always being outdated but find a watch you like and it will remain timeless.
Thank you for reading, be sure to let us know what you think in the comments or get in touch with any questions via our contact page.
Want more? Check out our other blogs or follow along on our socials for more.
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To save you from going down the rabbit hole, we've summarized everything you need to know about how to properly wear a watch.
Image: Pompeak Gentlemens Black & Croc
Wear a watch on your left wrist… or your right!
The wrist you should be wearing your watch on comes down to you: if you’re right handed you should wear a watch on your left wrist, if you’re left-handed, wear a watch on your right. This isn’t a hard-and-fast rule but it ensures the watch doesn’t get in your way and constantly knocked.
Left vs right handed wearing of the same Pompeak Gentlemen's Classic Navy
Wear the right watch to match your outfit
To ensure you’re looking your best, you need to pick the watch that best accompanies your outfit. If you’re wearing an expensive suit, a super tough G-Shock watch is going to ruin your look, just like wearing old, battered shoes would. This also applies to wearing an expensive looking watch like a Rolex sub-mariner with sports shorts and a tee shirt.
Watches should enhance your outfit, not distract from it.
Now, you don’t need a 15 or 20 piece watch collection to be able to complement your every outfit - carefully picking your collection will allow you to do this without spending a ridiculous amount of money. Picking watches with interchangeable straps will drastically increase the number of outfits they can be paired with.
Quick release pin on Pompeak interchangeable full grain leather strap
Watch, shoes, belt.
Although there are exceptions, a good rule to follow is to match you watch to your shoes and belt.
For example, tan shoes look great when paired with a brown leather belt, but a metallic black watch strap can skew the whole ensemble. Instead, choosing a brown leather-strapped dress watch can bring the whole outfit together, taking your style to the next level.
A matching outfit makes all the difference
Where to wear your watch
Watches should be worn before your wrist bone, so you still get the full range of motion. Wearing the watch here also means it won’t draw excessive attention:
Omega Speedmaster Professional paired with a more casual outfit
The fit of the watch
It may sound obvious but to have the watch sitting comfortably before the wrist bone, the strap needs to be the correct size. Ideally, you should be able to squeeze an index finger between the strap and your wrist. If the watch leaves an imprint on your wrist – it’s too tight.
Women’s watches can be worn the same way or, alternatively, loose around the wrist like a bracelet.
Leather banded watches allow you to adjust the tightness yourself, but most metal band watches will need to be taken to a jewelers to achieve that perfect fit. (Some dress and sports watches do have a prong-and-notch system, allowing the size to be adjusted without the need for a tool).
Resizing or replacing of watch bracelets usually requires specific tools
The watch face
Never wear a watch whose face is either too big or too small, just like Goldilocks, you need one that’s just right. The good news is that for most men; any watch face between 38mm and 42mm is perfect. For those with larger wrists, err on the larger side, upping the range to 40mm and 45mm, anything larger than this falls into the outdated trend of watches with huge faces.
For those with smaller wrists; 36mm to 40mm is ideal but definitely do not go above 42mm. Going too large can make your wrist look tiny or even that the watch is weighing you down.
Wearing a watch with the correct sized face not only complements your outfit better, but is also far more comfortable. Larger watches are usually heavier which can lead to wrist pain and may mean having to take a break from watches altogether.
Find the perfect fit for you
Conclusion
Hopefully this brief guide will help you style your current watch or and give you something to think about when finding your next one. At the end on the day, watches are a very personal choice so find ones that you love, treat them well and you'll be able to keep it for life.
If you have questions, be sure to let us know in the comment or get in touch via our contact page.
Be sure to check out our other blogs or follow along on our socials for more.
]]>Calendar & chronograph complications seen on Pompeaks debut collection
These movements fall into two categories; Quartz and Mechanical.
Quartz watches are battery powered and regulated by the vibrations of a quartz crystal. The first wrist watch to use such technology was released in 1969 - the Seiko Astron.
Fast forward to today and you'll find quartz movements are used in around 90% of the world’s watches due to their incredible reliability, accuracy and relatively low cost.
With this technology being first introduced in Japan, the Swiss and other manufacturers have been playing catch up ever since.
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Miyota 82S5 Automatic Movement (Japan)
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Japanese manufacturers are known for their perfectionism, and the same is true for their watch movements. Whether quartz or mechanical, they will be produced with extreme quality, accuracy and reliability. From springs to cogs, even lubricants and oils, all parts will likely be made in Japan, with industry leading technology and often on automated production line with a very high degree of precision.
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The automated method of manufacture often leads to cheaper movements than Swiss counterparts, but does not in any way stipulate lower quality (in fact the opposite is often true).
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Swiss movements have a heritage of craftsmanship and it’s no secret that Swiss movements are found in very high ticket watches. Priding on aesthetics, every detail is thought through, from the way the metals are cut and finished, to the placement of the jewels. These movements are assembled in Switzerland, often by hand and often using components produced externally - in China or Thailand for example. Whilst this may come as a shock to those newer to the world of watches, this is not a mark against quality. Swiss assemblies have very stringent control checks - But yes, the Swiss movement you’re paying a premium for may in fact only be 60% Swiss. |
Omega (Swiss) Movement
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The time and skill required in hand assembly of tiny watch components is undoubtedly impressive and the Swiss horology heritage has been earned through generations of world class craftsmanship.
This does come at a cost however and Swiss watches will generally carry a much higher price tag.
In contrast, Japanese movements will use similar materials, assembled with great precision on incredible automated lines at much lower price point.
Which is better? Well that is a matter of perspective.
If you are happy to pay a premium for the heritage and the incredible passion for perfection right down to the most minute aesthetic details then Swiss may be the choice for you.
If however, you're looking for a great quality functional and reliable movement at a more reasonable price then Japanese may suit you.
(Note: there are always exceptions to any rule, so whatever you decide, make sure you go with the watch that feels right to you)
At Pompeak, our mission is to create the watches we want to wear and introduce them at an affordable price point, so for us, right now, we are using some fantastic Japanese movements that allow us to produce stunning watches that deliver on both quality and cost. That is not to say we won't be including Swiss movements in future releases.
I have tried to be as on the fence as possible with this post as both Swiss and Japanese movements can be found in beautiful watches that, if treated correctly, will outlive there owners. So if you're searching for your new watch, follow your heart and you won't go far wrong.
Thanks for reading.
Be sure to check out other blogs for more.
Noah
Co-founder
www.pompeak.com
Pompeak is a relatively young business, but we have already seen just how quickly corporations can contribute to the problem. Whether it's by reducing our in house waste, minimizing our carbon footprint or simply using more environmentally friendly packaging; we are dedicated and determined to ensure we keep our impact on the planet to a minimum and grow to become part of the solution, not part of the problem.
Read on to learn a little more about what we’re doing, who we’re working with and how you can join in with our mission. Our planet is worth more than a short term profit.
The Kickstarter launch of our Debut collection marked the official start of Pompeak Watches. We were so happy to be able to successfully fulfill our backer rewards, but at the end of that phase, the evidence of our success was in the bags of waste packaging around us. It was clear that we could not carry on like this. We did not want our success to be soured by guilt.
The immediate solution - cut down. We are able to reuse 90% of what was initially thrown away, either; in house or by sending it back to our suppliers to reuse. What’s left is the off cuts of packaging and labels which are gathered and taken to our local recycling centre.
We’ve gone against tradition and don’t include a physical user manual with our watches. During our research phase we found that although these were welcomed, and seen as a nice touch, they were quickly dis guarded, lost or deemed unnecessary. Instead, our watches come with a small, printed welcome card with a QR code, scan-able with your smartphone, that will take take you to our quick start instructional videos, allowing you to get the most out of your Pompeak watch.
Not only does this reduce the initial waste, it also means we can keep the pages up to date without having to re-print endless manuals.
(Note: This page can also be accessed directly through our website for those who don’t have a smartphone)
Pompeak watches are built to last. This point may seem like an obvious one, but we do not want our watches to end up in landfill, and we take pride in the quality of materials we use. Corrosion resistant stainless steel casings, sapphire crystal glass and no less than 5 ATM water resistance on every watch we produce, all add up to ensure your watch will last a lifetime.
Some things need to happen for us to remain in business; we need to get components in, and we need to get your new watch to you. There is always going to be an impact here, but we're working with our suppliers, grouping by location and are merging the shipments to maximise delivery efficiency, for both watch components and packaging.
Getting your new watch to you depends somewhat on your location and local options; however we re-evaluate our delivery partners on a regular basis to ensure we are supporting the right ideas.
There are some exciting developments around all electric delivery depots being trialed in the UK.
Thank you for taking the time to read this article. If you have any further suggestions on how we can continue to support sustainability please reach out to us via our contact form or socials.
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Founded in 2017 by two brothers, Pompeak is a relatively young British company, but the journey has already been incredible - From connecting with customers all over the world, to seeing our products in British GQ.
With so much happening over the past few years it’s hard to fit it all into one blog post, but let’s give it a go.
It was early 2017 and I was on the market for a new watch but, didn’t want to spend thousands of pounds on something that was going to end up being too valuable to wear every day, something I am sure you can relate to. At the other end of the scale was super cheap but super low quality and poorly built watches that would be lucky to last a year, tempting for the price, but not the best looking and really only a temporary solution.
Somewhere in between is the ‘fashion watch’ bracket, currently crowded with low quality, cleverly marketed watches that have a huge mark up for really quite low end stuff.
Unsatisfied with any of my options I teamed up with my brother Dave and we began the mission to introduce a high quality, fairly priced timepiece to the world.
With my background in finance and Dave’s background in design and engineering we came up our first concepts for the debut collection; ditching standard mineral glass and alloy cases that currently flood the market with premium features like sapphire crystal glass, 316L stainless steel, high quality genuine leather straps and up to 50m water resistance, all while keeping the price tag way under the £200 mark we had aimed for.
After months of testing materials and tweaking the design, we had a great looking watch that was well built and more than fairly priced. It was time to introduce Pompeak to the world.
For us, Kickstarter was the perfect platform for the product launch - not only does it give us a chance to test our product out in the big bad world, it also gives us a chance to get feedback from a fantastic community of early supporters - Just what we needed, and second time round, with our campaign polished up, we did it!
Thanks to the support of our backers, Pompeak went from a vision into a reality.
As the dust settled on a busy couple of months, manufacturing and shipping the first batch of watches, the incredible feedback began to roll in,highlighting the quality of the watch and positivity around our campaign.
The single biggest request we had following the campaign, was to introduce an automatic collection, and we couldn’t be happier to oblige. So, taking the mountain of knowledge gained from our first collection, Dave and I got to work. Continuing to design the watches we want to wear guarantees' that each decision is made with passion and nothing is held back.
After months of brainstorms, designs and iterations, our latest watch was starting to take shape.
Our chosen Japanese automatic movement is subtly, yet boldly, shown through the beautiful open heart of the intricately detailed dial design. Paired with features such as the long lasting Super-LumiNova night glow, 100 metres water resistance and refined material choices, we created a truly sleek yet powerful timepiece, once again for a great price. Our Kickstarter backers thought so too, with over 100 people crowd funding the watch in just 18 days.
At the time of writing, we are in the final stages of production on the Gentlemen’s Collection whilst continuing to ship the Debut Collection worldwide.
Well, we are hard at work on our third product: the Sub Aquatic. Drawing on our years of experience to create a stunning dive watch able to survive anything you can throw at it – I may be biased, but trust me, you will not want to miss this.
Thank you to everyone who has been a part of the Pompeak journey so far, we grow more excited by the day to flourish as a company and as a community. Make sure you’re signed up to mailing list below, or follow us @pompeakwatches on social media to stay up to date with all the latest news and exclusive deals.
Thanks for reading.
Noah
Co-founder
Pompeak.com